Site Map

  Tides Page
  Fishing Knots
  FWC Reports
  Feature Articles
  How-To Articles
  Fish Pictures
  Fishing Links
  Fly Fishing Info
  Red Tide Update
  Recipes
  Fishing Clubs
  Artificial Reefs
  Capt's License
  Cleaning Fish
  Catch & Release
  Fishing Piers
  Florida Ramps
  Trailering tips
  Disabled Fishing
  Party Boats
  Save Seabirds
  Security Zones
  Solunar Tables
  Moon Phase

  Fish Reports
 
Your Reports
 
Mel's Column
 
Florida Reports
  Tampa Bay
  Skyway Piers
  Lower Tpa Bay
  Manatee County
  Sarasota
  Boca Grande
  North Pinellas
  Nature Coast
  Fla Panhandle
  SW Florida
  Florida Keys
  South Florida
  Treasure Coast
  Ft. Pierce
  Indian River Lgn
  NE Florida
  Kayak Report
  Offshore-Gulf
  Fly Report
  Freshwater
  Fishing Map
  Fishing Forecast
 
Mel's Podcasts

 

*Printer-friendly version of this article

What You Need to Know About Fishing Rods.
By CAPT. MEL BERMAN,
Florida Fishing Weekly

**Many think of the fishing rod as a relatively recent invention. But there is evidence that early fishermen as far back as 2 AD, fashioned their own rods from long sticks, made hooks of bone or wood, and even built primitive landing nets. Over those centuries, the fishing pole has evolved into a highly developed product, and today’s models provide the ultimate combination of strength and sensitivity. 

But what should we know about fishing rods before we plunk down our hard earned cash? How can one tell the good ones from the best, most advanced versions? For some answers, I spoke with Jim Gamble of Dudley Custom Rods. I asked him to take us on a “tour’ of the typical fishing rod. What are the main components?

“The most important part, obviously, would be the blank itself. Most of the inshore rods are made of a fiberglass fabric and a resin – the most common being graphite. The more expensive ones are generally constructed of carbon fiber with resin impregnated in it. There are also composites, which are blends of two or more materials,” he said. 

Next in importance would be the guides, and then the reel seat. High end guides are worth the extra money because it enables longer casts and is a lot easier on the fishing line. Gamble believes that the least important component would be the grips. “They’re more for comfort, made mostly of foam and cork, and some are still made out of wood. I’ve been experimenting with carbon-fiber grips, which are about 30-percent the weight of cork, and probably four times stronger.” 

There are two main types of rods -- the fast action rods, which are fairly stiff. and the more moderate rods, which are not quite as fast, but have additional flex or bend to them. 

The stiffer, fast action rods are more suited for working jigs and most artificials. Any motion that you impart on that type, twitching with a hand or movement of your arm is reflected in the action of the lure. “In other words,” said Gamble, “you move the rod three or four inches – the lure’s going to move three or four inches. On the other hand, fast action rods, are generally not going to be quite as sensitive, but they will allow you to work a lure more effectively.” 

The primary purpose of the softer, more moderate rods is basically for live bait fishing. “I know that when using the stiffer, fast action rod for tossing greenbacks, the bait might go one way and the hook the other. The softer rods, on the other hand, flex more and when you make your back cast, the weight of the bait causes the rod to flex and provides a nice launch with a soft landing,” said Gamble “And by the way, the more moderate rods are also excellent with crank baits and sub-surface lures. That kind of rod is much more effective because when a fish strikes, it won’t jerk the lure out of a fish’s mouth. The tip actually gives a bit, allowing the fish to keep that lure in its mouth, providing for a good hook set.”

Let talks about rod length. How does one go about deciding on how long a rod to buy? 

“Well the shorter a rod is going to be more accurate. When the rod is longer, the tip’s further from your hand, which makes for diminished accuracy. Now that’s not to say that a good angler can’t take a 7 ½ foot rod and still hit targets right on the money.”

“When working structure, you’re better off with a shorter rod, so that you can more easily aim it between those mangroves or pilings and also hook up the fish more quickly,” said Gamble.

Strength and sensitivity are also important factors, but they don’t necessarily go together. Gamble advises that there are rods that are very strong, but are quite sensitive, when compared with some rods that aren’t as strong. “Sensitivity has to do with a lot of things. What type of material the blank’s made from; the kind of guides; the line that’s used; the reel seat, how it’s attached to the blank; what the grips are made of – whether they’re cork or wood.  And as far as strength is concerned, that has to do with the diameter of the blank – and how heavy it is.

The difference between weight and durability also is an important consideration. If a rod is of a lower modulus (strength) and lighter, you might lose some durability. Higher modulus rods will be stronger.

As for maintenance of a rod, Gamble said that “a lot of it also depends how you store and care for it. It’s always a good idea to rinse it off and wipe it down after a fishing trip. Where and how you use a rod is also a critical consideration. In a kayak, for example, because of your seating position, it won’t hold up as well as it would when using it in an elevated boat.”

Matching a reel to a rod is a matter of balancing. In other words, when holding the reel on a balanced rod, make sure that the highest percentage of that weight is in your hand, and balanced between the front and the back. For most anglers, the goal is keeping the combo as light as possible and yet, still capable of cranking in the largest fish you’ll be targeting.

Whether you choose a medium light or medium heavy – it does have a lot to do with power – actual torque you can put on that rod while you’re trying to bring that fish to the boat.

The action of a rod has to do with how far down the rod bends when it gets pressure on it. “With an extra fast rod only about 10 to 15 percent of the rod bends before it gets into the power or backbone of the rod. A moderate action rod will bend from 35 to 40 percent before it gets into the true power of the rod and starts applying pressure to the fish,” said Gamble. “The actual power of a rod has to do with how much strength the rod has when it is fully bent over. You just have to find that happy medium where the durability is there, but you also will likely want it as light as possible for the kind of fishing you do.” 

Jim Gamble makes custom rods under the brand name Dudley Rods. To learn more, go to http://www.dudleyrods.com/
 
MelShowBlock.jpg (7963 bytes)


Web site created and managed by Capt. Mel Berman.
Site-specific editorial and photos 1995 - 2008 Mel-Fin Corp.  All rights reserved.