The barge canal footprint, once deemed an environmental disaster, has been transformed into a corridor dedicated to outdoor recreation unlike anything else in the state.
"The irony of it never cases to amaze me," said Mickey Thomason, Central Region manager for the state Office of Greenways and Trails (OGT), which oversees the greenway.
The greenway came about in 1991, when the state agreed to terms of the federal bill de-authorizing the barge canal project. Those terms dictated that the barge canal lands be used for recreational purposes.
Since then, the OGT has molded what was already there -- including Rodman Reservoir and Lake Rousseau impoundments on either end of the greenway -- into a 90,000-acre linear park. Trailheads, campgrounds, equestrian and mountain bike trails, boat ramps and other facilities were established, and more are in the works.
Last year, more than 1.6 million people visited the greenway, Thomason said.
"It's the most visited state-managed area in the state -- more than any state park," Thomason said.
Still, to many people living outside the general area of the greenway, its magnitude and recreational opportunities remain relatively unknown.
"The folks who live around it know about it, but outsiders really haven't found it yet," said Chris McKendree, a former Orange Park resident who oversees the western end of the greenway for the OGT.
On a recent trip, I explored the western end, where the barge canal empties into the Gulf near Inglis in Levy County.
A 700-acre flatwood hammock, featuring 5 miles of trails, has been set aside as an equestrian area. Hikers and bicyclists use the paved Withlacoochee Bay Trail, which parallels the barge canal. At intervals along the canal, covered pavilions overlook the water, where people can fish, bird-watch or picnic. A canoe/kayak launch is located on a shallow, oyster-pocked bay leading to the Gulf.
There's a Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission office on site, along with a boat ramp on the barge canal that runs into the Gulf. Depending on the time of year, the canal can hold tarpon, trout, redfish, sharks, cobia and jacks.
Nearby, in the Inglis Dam area of the greenway, a first-rate boat ramp and parking facility gives access to stump-filled Lake Rousseau, reputed to be full of bass. Another boat ramp leads to the old Withlacoochee River channel. Below the dam, anglers were catching speckled perch on the day I visited. People walked their dogs in the wide-open spaces.
I was impressed. And here's the kicker: Everything was free. No charge.
The Cross Florida Greenway might be described as a cross between a giant state park and a wildlife management area. With numerous free access points, the greenway is not nearly as structured as a state park. But with amenities such as paved biking and walking trails, modern restrooms, boat ramps and a visitors center, the greenway is more user-friendly than a WMA.
"The big three are hiking, biking and the equestrian use," Thomason said. "But fishing is very popular, too."
The greenway is divided into three sections -- roughly from I-75 to the Gulf, the Ocala area and the east end from Eureka to Palatka. Each has its own signature.
The Ocala area boasts numerous multi-use trails. The Santos Bike Trails, winding through rock quarry country, are a favorite of mountain bikers.
"There are over 60,000 people a year going in there to mountain bike," Thomason said. "It's considered one of the best destinations for mountain biking in the Southeast United States."
The greenway visitor's center is located at the Buckman Lock near Rodman Reservoir. The campground at Rodman has a newly paved road and new restrooms, and more campsites are scheduled to open next month. Camping is the only activity that requires a fee in the greenway.
Ramps at Kenwood, Orange Springs and Hog Valley provide water access to the Rodman area, which is nationally known for its fishing.
Taken as a whole, the greenway is one giant nature center. Funding comes from the Legislature and grants from such agencies as the Department of Transportation. The OGT is a relatively small agency, relying heavily on volunteers and with limited resources for such things as marketing.
But word is getting out, and once you've experienced the greenway, it markets itself.
"We build it; they're going to come," McKendree said. "In 20 years, I believe the greenway is going to be the [New York City] Central Park of Central Florida."
For more information on the Cross Florida Greenway, visit www.dep.state.fl.us/gwt/cfg/ or call (352) 236-7143 or (800) 245-2052
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